Fitting a kitchen area– Installing new worktops

I am assuming for the purpose of this post that you will be using joint strips between the worktop edges. You can of course cut a mitre joint using a router and jig however this is a job where I would use the services of a proficient joiner.

These cuts have to be precise and the cost, not forgetting the await a replacement worktop, has in the past put me off trying.

If you are proficient and positive enough to cut a mitre joint, examine your router has a collet huge enough to take a half inch (13mm) router bit. As the ‘bits’ which cut to worktop depth usually, as far as I know, have an half inch (13mm) shank, whereas most DIY routers will only use up to an 8mm shank.

Butt joints (worktops signing up with edge to edge) are much easier however have to be cut accurately, on the reverse side of the worktop( s). Slots have to be cut-out using a router and jig. Securing brackets, which being in these slots, are tightened up from listed below when the worktop is in position on top of the kitchen units.

  • Worktop jointing clamps
  • Worktop jointing clamps
  • Coloured joint sealant and solvent
  • Coloured joint sealant and solvent
  • Attempt not to have the joint too near any of the ends of the base systems as the clamps may be tough to access to and tighten up.

Coloured jointing sealant need to be put onto one edge of the two sections of worktop and as you tighten up the clamps check continuously how flush the worktop edges are simply by touch. Take care not to over-tighten the clamps as the finished edge of the worktop may begin to ‘raise’. When you are pleased with the quality of the joint, clean away surplus joint sealant (like this one) with the solvent that must be provided with it.

By the way, the coloured sealant is extremely helpful to mask any small chips or scratches that may sadly occur during the fitting of the worktop(s).

Fitting cooking area worktops requires help, not only for cutting them to length, however also because of their size and weight. The last thing you wish to do is to damage one when placing it on top of the brand-new kitchen area systems.

If you have a ‘U’ or ‘L’ shaped kitchen start with the centre or ‘back’ worktop.

Prior to you cut the worktop to length measure along both the back and leading edges of your base units just in case the walls are not quite square and move these measurements to your worktop. Check your measurements and remember you can enable a couple of millimetres for any end that will have wall tiles overlapping the worktop edge, then do the cut.

You can use a wood saw for this job, but a jigsaw makes it much easier. Just remember to use goggles and a face mask. If the mask stops you seeing your cutting mark on the worktop usage masking tape and re-mark the cutting line.

When positioning the worktops on the base systems you may have to go after out a little bit of plaster along the wall to allow the worktop front edge to associate the base units. Preferably, the worktop needs to extend over the base units leading edge by an equivalent quantity along its entire length.

Now determine the other worktop(s) once again, throughout both the front and back edges of the base systems and cut to size enabling the joint strip.

Seal completion of the worktop with either PVA glue or clear sealant before fitting the joint strip to stop any future liquid spillage from damaging the worktop.

When you are pleased the worktop(s) are sitting on the base systems correctly you can mark out your cuts for the sink system and hob. Once again use masking tape if you can not see your defining plainly.

If you are lucky the sink system and hob will include design templates to mark the worktop for cutting out. Generally the hole to be cut is around 5– 10mm less than the circumference of the sink system or the hob. The sink system can be placed face down on the worktop, the circumference can be defined, then reduce this cut by the suitable measurement all round. The hob might have no design template however needs to have the cut out measurements provided with it. These measurements need to be marked out very properly and make certain the hob is in the position you desire it.

Check your measurements prior to making any cuts in the worktop (I fitted a hob recently which only had a 5mm edge that rested on the worktop so I need to have examined my marking out at least several times).

These cuts can then be used a jigsaw. When you have completed the cuts and the worktop(s) are back in position they can be repaired using the screws provided with the base units. Once again seal the cut-outs of the worktops with PVA glue or clear sealant prior to fitting the sink unit and hob.

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